Lincoln has one of the most dramatic urban situations in England. The Cathedral — along with the Castle — sits on a limestone escarpment above the lower city, visible for twenty miles across the flat Lincolnshire plain. The Romans built their legionary fortress here for the same reason: height, control, visibility. The site has been continuously occupied for 2,000 years.
The practical picture: population 100,000, University of Lincoln with 14,000 students (rapidly growing, campus on Brayford Waterfront, opened 1996), and a city with a clear two-part geography — the historic Uphill around the Cathedral and Castle, and the commercial city Below Hill around the Brayford. Most of the interesting date venues are Uphill. Most of the transport and commerce is Below Hill.
Steep Hill is precisely what it says: a medieval street connecting the two halves, lined with independent shops, cafés, and antique dealers. It takes about five minutes to climb and is one of the more characterful shopping streets in the Midlands. The Newport Arch at the top of the Bailgate is a Roman gateway still in use — vehicles pass through it daily, as they have for 1,700 years.
The areas worth knowing
The Bailgate & Cathedral Quarter
The uphill historic core — Cathedral, Castle, Roman-grid streets (Bailgate is built on a Roman colonnaded street; the column bases are visible through glass panels in the road). Independent restaurants, cafés, antique dealers. Best neighbourhood in Lincoln for a first date by a significant margin.
Steep Hill
The medieval connecting street between lower and upper city. Independent bookshops (The Collection bookshop), antique dealers, good cafés. Worth walking up slowly rather than rushing — the buildings are interesting and the view back down improves as you climb. One of the better short walks in the Midlands.
Brayford Waterfront
The regenerated marina and University of Lincoln campus. Bars and restaurants, boat trips available. Less atmospheric than the Uphill but useful for evening venues with a younger demographic. The view back up to the Cathedral from the waterfront is one of Lincoln's best images.